Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture

Contents

• Acknowledgements
• Foreword
• Preface
• Abbreviations
• Dynasties
• List of Figures
• List of Tables
• List of Pattern Drafts
• Introduction
• Chapter 1: The World of Traditional Jingju
• Role Types
• Plays
• Visual Components
• Costumes
• Aesthetic Principles
• Beauty
• Chapter 2: The World of Traditional Jingju Costumes
• Costumes and Roles
• Identity through Costumes
• Absence of Time Period
• Absence of Season
• Absence of Region
• Dramatic Circumstances
• Selection Process
• Costumes and Movement
• Costume Sources
• Chapter 3: The Form and Historical Roots of Costumes
• Historical Background
• Cloth-Based Sources of Clothing
• Han Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes
• Hide-Based Sources of Clothing
• Manchu Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes
• Theatrically Based Clothing
• Form and Conventions of Usage
• Patterning and Cut of Costumes
• Construction
• Fabrics
• Chapter 4: The Symbolism and Application of Color
• History of Color Symbolism
• Upper and Lower Colors
• Meanings of the Upper Five Colors
• Meanings of the Lower Five Colors
• Color Combinations by Role Type
• Aesthetics of Color Composition
• Fabric and Embroidery Floss Colors
• Lining Colors
• Chapter 5: The Aesthetics and Meanings of the Embroidered Imagery
• Embroidery in Chinese History
• Embroidery Techniques
• Composition
• Imagery
• Chapter 6: The Costume Compendium
• The Major Costumes
• Mang (Court robe)
• Numang (Female court robe)
• Qimang (Manchu court robe)
• Gailiang mang (Reformed court robe)
• Pi (Formal robe)
• Nupi (Female formal robe)
• Kao (Armor)
• Nukao (Female armor)
• Gailiang kao (Reformed armor) and Gailiang nukao (Female reformed armor)
• Xuezi (Informal robe)
• Nuxuezi (Female informal robe)
• Fugui yi (Garment of wealth and nobility)
• The Long Costumes
• Kai chang (Open robe)
• Guanyi (Official robe)
• Gailiang guanyi (Reformed official robe)
• Eunuch Robe (Taijian yi)
• Xueshi yi (Scholar's robe)
• Jianyi (Archer's robe)
• Longtao yi (Attendant robe)
• Dakai (Big armor)
• Gongzhuang (Palace garment)
• The Short Costumes
• Magua (Riding jacket)
• Baoyi (Lit. "leopard" or "embracing" clothes)
• Kuaiyi (Lit. "fast" clothes) and Bingyi (Soldier's clothes)
• Chayi (Lit. "tea" clothes)
• Big-sleeved Robe (Daxiu)
• Prisoner's Clothes (Zuiyi)
• Executioner's Clothes (Guizishou yi)
• Jacket and Skirt (Aoqun) and Jacket and Trousers (Aoku)
• Zhan'ao zhanqun (War jacket, skirt, and trousers)
• Caipo ao (Colorful jacket for old women)
• Duantiao (Lit. "short and convenient for playing" robe) and An'anyi (Children's clothing)
• The Specific Costumes
• Religious Costumes
• Bagua yi (Eight trigrams robe)
• Fayi (Priest's chasuble)
• Sengyi (Buddhist robe)
• Xiao sengyi (Young monk's robe)
• Head Monk Cloak (Jiasha)
• Seng kanjian or wuseng yi (Military monk vest)
• Sanse dao beixin (Three-color Daoist vest)
• Daoist Nun Vest (Daogu kanjian)
• Mythological Creatures and Beings
• Ethnic Clothing
• Qipao (Manchu gown)
• Bufu (Coat with a badge)
• Special Characters
• Lady Yu
• Guan Yu
• Zhong Kui
• Monkey Costumes
• Zhiduyi (Combat clothes for the Monkey King)
• Monkey Clothes (Houyi)
• Houjia (Monkey armor)
• Little Monkey Clothes (Xiao houyi)
• Mei Lanfang Designs
• Guzhuang ("Ancient-style" dress)
• Cloud-terrace Costume (Yuntai zhuang)
• Accessory Pieces
• Trousers (Kuzi) and Colored Trousers (Caiku)
• Skirts (Qunzi)
• Vests (Kanjian): Male
• Vests: Female
• Large Apron (Da fandan) and Small Apron (Xiao fandan)
• Capes (Doupeng)
• Belts
• Footwear
• Inner Garments
• Water Sleeves (Shuixiu)
• Chapter 7: Makeup, Hair, and Headdresses
• Women's Makeup
• Men's Makeup
• Lianpu (Lit. "face chart")Makeup
• Hairdressing and Accessories
• Men's Hair
• Beards
• Headdresses
• Ceremonial Headdresses
• Helmets
• Hats
• Soft Caps
• Supplementary Styles
• Chapter 8: Dressing Techniques and Costume Plots
• Training
• Patterns of Selection
• Layering Patterns
• Deviations from Dressing Patterns
• Costume Plots
• A Costume Plot and Two Performances
• Dressing Techniques
• Trunks and Storage
• Appendix I: Costume Pattern Drafts
• Appendix II: Dictionary of Jingju Characters
• Glossary
• List of Performances
• Index